Colette's Grand Detour

Nepal is a landlocked country in South Asia, with 2 very big neighbours. China lies to the north and India to its south, east and west. The country is small in size, but has one of the world’s most dramatic elevation gradients. The lowland Terai plains in the south Nepal lie at under 100m above sea level. And Mount Everest is the highest point on earth. The total population of Nepal is ~30m of which 5m living in Kathmandu Valley.

The country consists of three main geographical zones. The lowlands, also known as the terai are flat, fertile plains along the Indian border and part of the Ganges basin. The area is agriculturally-rich and densely populated. Chitwan National Park, which I hope to be visiting later in the week is located in this area and contains sub-tropical rainforests. The Hill Region consists of mid-elevation hills between 600-3000m and includes Kathmandu Valley and Pokhara. These are the cultural heartlands of the Newar, Gurung and Magar communities. And finally, the mountain region consists of the high Himalaya and trans-Himalaya areas that sit 3000m above sea level. This area is sparsely populated and home to Sherpa, Tamang, Thakali and Tibetan-speaking groups.

Evidence of habitation in Nepal goes back to the Neolithic period, with tools and pottery found in Kathmandu Valley. According to Nepalese tradition, the earliest rulers were the Gopal dynasty (cow-herders) followed by the Mahispal dynasty (buffalo-herders). These were early pastoral communities and are largely seen as mythical, reflecting the country’s transition from nomadic herding to agricultural settlement.

The Kirat dynasty from 800 BCE to the 4th century marks the first historical era. They established small kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley and their capital is said to have been Patan. Archaeological remains suggest organised settlements with trade links to India and Tibet. The Kirat’s practiced animism and ancestor worship, later blending this with early Hinduism. And they spoke a Tibeto-Burman language. Early forms of terraced agriculture and trade in herbs and copper developed under them. In the later Kirat era, Nepal came into contact with northern Indian kingdoms and this is likely the period when Buddhism spread into Kathmandu Valley alongside Hindu practices.

The Licchavi Period spans the 3rd-9th century and is considered Nepal’s classical age. The Licchavis established a Hindu-Buddhist monarchy centered in Kathmandu. They were originally an ancient Kshatriya clan from northern India, mentioned in early Buddhist texts as rulers of Vaisali, in present-day Bihar. They migrated north to the Kathmandu Valley around the 4th century, and replaced the Kirata dynasty, establishing a centralised state with its capital at Managriha, which is now central Kathmandu. During this era religion was pluralistic, with Hinduism and Buddhism co-existing harmoniously, often sharing temples and festivals. It is during this period that the fusion of Hindu and Buddhist iconography emerged, which is a hallmark of Nepali art, even today. The Pashupatinath and Changu Narayan temples date from this era.

The rulers established a tradition of monumental and religious architecture that was later expanded by the Malla kings. It was also during this time that the King in Tibet married a Nepalese princess, shaping Tibet’s early Buddhist adoption. Many Nepalese craftsmen and scholars travelled to Lhasa to help build temples and introduce Buddhist art styles. The era was prosperous because it sat at a crossroads of trade routes between India and Tibet, along which wool, salt, gold and grain travelled.

The dynasty began to collapse by the late 8th century when internal divisions and the rise of regional chiefs weakened the Licchavi authority. Foreign invasions and shifting trade routes reduced their power further. By the 9th century the dynasty gave way to the Thakuri rulers. However the Licchavi impact on society can still be seen today. Their administrative model influenced later Nepali governance. And their religious pluralism became a defining trait of Nepalese culture.

Power was fragmented under the Thakuri dynasty and replaced by local rulers. By the 13th century the Malla kings rose to prominence, unifying Kathmandu Valley and fostering a renaissance in art, architecture and literature. The word Malla means ‘wrestler’ or ‘strongman’ in Sanskrit and the kings used it as a royal title rather than a family name. Around the late 15th century the kingdom split into three independent Malla states, run by three sons of the previous king, Kantipur (Kathmandu), Lalitput (Patan) and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur). This division led to intense rivalries and also spurred on artistic and architectural competition. It resulted in the breathtaking palace squares.

However, the continuous rivalry weakened their defences and when Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha began his campaign of unification in the mid 18th century, the valley’s rulers failed to unite against him. In 1769, Shah conquered Kathmandu and declared it the capital of a unified Kingdom of Nepal, ending the Malla dynasty. Like the Licchavis, they left an enduring legacy, not only with the Durbar squares, but also most of the festivals, dance traditions and ritual music dates back to the Malla era.

Shah closed the borders to European powers and adopted an isolationist policy. The kingdom expanded west and east until it clashed with the British East India Company, which led to the Anglo-Nepalese War from 1814 to 1816. Both powers wanted control over the Himalayan foothills and the strategic passes linking India and Tibet. After a lot of bloodshed, the Treaty of Sagauli was signed in 1816 in which Nepal ceded about 1/3 of its territory and Nepal had to accept a British diplomatic mission stationed in Kathmandu, symbolizing reduced sovereignty. Nepal agreed to conduct foreign affairs only with British approval making the beginning of British influence over Nepal’s external policy. In exchange, the British recognised Nepal’s independence and sovereignty over its remaining territory. Soon after the war, and being impressed by the bravery of the Nepali soldiers, the British began recruiting Gurkhas into the British army. This led to the creation of the Gurkha regiment, a tradition that continues in the British and Indian armies today.

Following the Anglo-Nepalese war, Nepal turned inwards, focusing on internal consolidation. The Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa dominated this era, maintaining the army’s prestige and resisting British influence, until his downfall in 1839, which ushered in a period of high political instability.

In 1846 a chaotic night of bloodshed occurred known as the Kot Massacre. Jung Bahadur Kunwar eliminated dozens of high-ranking nobles and seized control. He declared himself Prime Minister and the de facto ruler of Nepal. And forced the king to grant him hereditary control of the premiership, creating a dynastic autocracy under the ‘Rana’ family name. The Rana Regime continued until 1951. During this time the Shah monarchs remained as figureheads, whilst the Rana Prime Ministers ruled absolutely. The Ranas maintained close political ties with the British Raj, but Nepal become isolated from the outside world, with no modernization in education or civil rights for the general public. The Ranas and their families lived lavish lifestyles in European-style palaces. Despite the repression, some limited modernization was initiated such as systemizing caste and social laws under Hindu norms and adopting some administrative practices that were observed when visiting France and Britain in 1850. Roads, palaces and military facilities were expanded, but benefits for the general public lagged behind. Society during this time was rigidly hierarchical, governed by caste law and Rana decree. Education was limited to the elite and public literacy was minimal. Rebellion was harshly punished and press freedom did not exist.

By the early 20th century, external pressures were growing on the Ranas as the world modernized and India moved forward with independence. Nepali students abroad, began forming political movements such as the Nepali Congress, calling for democracy. King Tribhuvan (who secretly opposed Rana rule) became a symbol of resistance. In 1950-51 the Nepali Congress launched an armed revolution from newly-independent India. The King fled Nepal to India where he was recognized as the legitimate monarch. The uprising and diplomatic negotiations forced the Ranas to step down restoring royal rule and democracy.

Although King Tribhuvan’s return restored the monarchy and a democratic government was established, political instability persisted. Over 20 governments came and went in the next decade, with constant tension between the monarchy and democratic forces. In 1960, King Mahendra dissolved parliament accusing it of corruption, banned political parties and introduced the Panchayat system, a partyless autocracy under royal control. The king claimed to rule under the idea of ‘guided democracy’. Although education and infrastructure expanded during this time, freedom was limited and power centralised. By the late 1980s economic hardship, India’s trade blockade and general public dissatisfaction sparked the People’s Movement of 1990. The 1990 Constitution created a constitutional monarchy and multi-party democracy.

In the 1990s multi-party elections were held and and civil liberties and free-press flourished. But instability persisted. There were frequent government changes and corruption scandals which created a disillusioned public. In 1996 the Communist Part of Nepal (Maoists) launched a ‘People’s War’ to overthrow the monarchy and establish a socialist republic. Between 1996 and 2001 the Maoists gained control of much of the countryside, setting up ‘people’s governments’ and fighting police and army forces. Then in 2001 there was a Royal Massacre. King Birendra and most of the royal family were killed in mysterious circumstances and King Gyanendra took the throne. The event shocked the nation and deepened mistrust in the monarchy. Between 2002 and 2005 the King dismissed parliament, took direct control and limited the media and political parties. The conflict with the Maoists continued and overall about 17,000 people died and tens of thousands were displaced.

In 2006, millions took to the streets protesting to restore parliament and end absolute monarchy. The King was forced to restore parliament, a ceasefire with the Maoists was declared and a Peace Accord signed. The Maoists entered mainstream politics, and their armed forces were integrated or demobilized under UN supervision. The new parliament stripped the king of most of his powers and declared Nepal a secular state. The Shah monarchy was abolished in 2008, marking the birth of the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal.

Political instability continued with frequent changes in government. Between 2008 and 2013 Nepal had over half a dozen prime ministers from different political parties. After many years of debate, Nepal adopted a new constitution in 2015, emphasizing secularism, devolved power to provincial governments, and inclusive representation. Just months before the constitution was formalized, the country suffered the catastrophic 2015 Gorkha earthquake which further delayed political progress.

The recent protests across Nepal were sparked for a couple of reasons. The government ordered a shutdown of 26 social media platforms who had failed to register under new government rules. This was seen as censorship. There was also broader frustration around corruption, inequality and youth unemployment that had been simmering for a longer time. The social media ban was just a catalyst for a much deeper issue. Many younger Nepalis feel left out of politics and feel there are no economic opportunities for them. The protests were mobilized through on-line channels, but the movement did not have a preordained leader at the start.

Evidence of the protests is spread across the city, particularly affecting government buildings along the main road where the parliament is. It is clear that specific buildings were targeted as we frequently saw buildings left untouched next to buildings that had had all their windows smashed in. The protests targeted businesses that were owned by those who were seen as corrupt or supporting the government. For example a big supermarket chain was targeted because the owner donated a lot to the campaigns of the disliked parties. And the Hilton was burnt down because it was seen as funded by corrupt officials families. Elections will be held in 6 months, but the concern is that the same old faces from the same disliked parties will be voted back in and little progress will have been made. There is even talk of bringing the monarchy back.